Day 64: Fossil Hallway and Hostel Magic. John Day to Ochoco National Forest

“You can’t get to courage without rumbling with vulnerability. Embrace the suck.” - Brené Brown, as seen in the Spoke’n Hostel bathroom in Mitchell, Oregon

First rest stop vibes.

Ride Overview

Mileage: 86.3

Elevation: +5650’/-4028’

General Direction: Ride on westbound U.S. 26 for the duration of the route.

Points of Interest: John Day River, John Day River Valley, Strawberry/Rocky Mountains (Table Rock, Table Mountain, Juniper Butte, Mitchell Mountain, etc.), Ochoco Mountain Range (Tracy Mountain, Mount Pisgah, White Butte, Slide Mountain, etc.), John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, Keyes Summit, Rock Creek, Bridge Creek, Spoke’n Hostel (Mitchell)

Tales of the Trail

It was as if the past two days were placed into a blender. Lengths of desert plateaus with all sorts of interesting plants blended themselves with mountains complete with standing armies of pines. The beauty of both was unreal; the tightness of the colorful Fossil Beds canyon, the vastness of Ochoco as seen from the top of the down-grade, the line of fields surrounding the John Day River only to become rock immediately outside of them, the high and pointed mountain peaks in the distance. Oregon continues to out-do itself.

Jaylen, Emily, and Olivia starting up after the first rest stop.

Sam R and the canyon bed.

The Sams speed toward the canyon entrance, as seen on the right.

The day began with a 40-mile gradual descent through the John Day River Valley, very similar to what we saw arriving into John Day the day prior. At mile 37.5, the valley suddenly tightened and converged within a hefty, picturesque canyon, which was the start of the Fossil Beds National Monument. U.S. 26 then began to climb. For 24 miles it took us deeper into the mountains, with only the sounds of our music, passing cars, bikes, callouts, and a bit of wind accompanying the silence. Trailers and campers often shared the road with us, and even some grazing cattle were visible tucked in between the passing ridges. Mile 60 gave us a good opportunity for a lunch stop before the hardest parts of the day, and an interested local sheriff, together with his partner Baby Yoda, told us about a welcoming hostel in Mitchell, the only other town we would pass through on our route. At mile 64, things got interesting as the sandier environment melted away to reveal hundred-foot tall pines on a gigantic ten-mile descent. Just as soon as its fun twists and open sky came and went, a monster 12.4 mile climb with a 3.6% average grade appeared to test us. The two remaining groups of riders pushed through this grueling yet quite pretty ascent, and in the mid-afternoon, arrived tired and triumphant at our site in the Ochoco Divide Campground.

Adam heeding the warning.

Waiting for the van to come.

Finishing out the first long climb, Ochoco Mountains in the distance.

Setting up tents, conversation, music, and rest became the vibe for an hour or so, when it was decided that we would backtrack to Mitchell and check out the Spoke’n Hostel. The host family, staying on behalf of proprietors and founders Patrick and Jalet Farrell, greeted us with enthusiasm as we entered the small, converted church only to find one of the most charming and uniquely visioned spaces on this whole trip. Everything was labeled with signs with their own artistic wit and significance (sort of like Trader Joe’s but even better). Much-needed showers were taken by the dusty team, and kits were washed using a couple five-gallon buckets and a plunger. The main floor had six bunk beds with wooden accents and comfortable dressings as well as a bathroom that also functions as a barber shop. The basement, where we hung out for a bit after showering, had everything. Maps lined the wall denoting the hostel’s place on the TransAmerica Bike Trail (mile 404) and plenty of other fun details; a very cool intersection for two different cross-country paths. Riders played board games with some of the children of another family staying at the hostel, watched some of ‘Ferris Bueller’s Day Off’, interviewed for this journal segment, and continued to check out this colorful cyclist haven. Alas, we had to leave, and began to prepare a dinner of hot dogs and three pies from Silver Spur in Mt. Vernon (the only other other town along the route) at our campsite. The team chatted and laughed by the fire as we enjoyed dinner and each other’s company, and we slept under clear skies with the still-magnificent trees looming overhead. Tomorrow is the small city of Bend and the first glimpse of the Cascades.

Hostel basement.

Cleaning your kit the old-fashioned way.

Cool maps and information board, with emphasis on the TransAm Trail.

Kathryn pointing us home.

Peach habanero, multi-berry, or German chocolate?

A nice moment by the fire.

Cyclist’s Corner

Today’s Rider: Emily Gonzalez

How are you today? I am feeling really good.

In your opinion, what makes a good I4K teammate? Someone who is always willing to help, is considerate, funny, and I don’t think any of these are a problem for any of us. Wouldn’t trade anyone for anyone else!

Where was the best ice cream you’ve had so far? Olly and Wally’s in Logansport, Indiana. I got a hot fudge sundae and it was reeeally good! Update: Bonta in Bend, Oregon, it was so good I went back twice.

How have you improved in handling the bike during the ride? I think my shifting has gotten a lot better. I feel the difference; it is a second-nature thing at this point.

If you could snapshot one favorite or at least special sight, place, or moment in your mind that you’ve experienced on the bike, what would it be, where was it, and on what ride day? I’m stuck between two, because today was really beautiful. We went through canyons with interesting rock formations, and the day we rolled into Boulder was a long day, but seeing the mountains and what we were going to be doing with the fog, and all the trees . . . It smelled and looked like what you would think of too. I just loved that moment.

In ten words or less, how will you remember this ride when we complete it? A meaningful summer.

Please visit the rider profiles page on the website to learn more about this year’s riders! :)

Blender ingredient 1.

Blender ingredient 2.